If you’ve come across the name Pulgarcito in Rome while talking about food, you’ve stumbled upon the beating heart of Salvadoran cuisine in the capital. It’s a little piece of Central America transplanted among the cobblestones, and the pupusa is its undisputed queen.
What is a Pupusa?
The pupusa resembles the Modenese tigella or a small, flattened focaccia, but its essence is profoundly different. It is made from masa de maíz, the same base as tortillas. This gives it a much more intense roasted corn flavor than wheat.
Unlike the tigella, which is cut and stuffed after cooking, the pupusa is stuffed while raw. A small ball of dough is formed, the filling is placed in the center, it is sealed, and then flattened with the hands until it becomes a flat disc, before being cooked on the comal (a hot griddle). The dough melds with the filling, creating a contrast between the crispy, charred exterior and the soft, stringy interior.
Pulgarcito’s Selection
The menu features pupusas, tamales, horchata, and many other flavors that tell the story of the owners’ hometowns. Described on the menu as “handmade corn flatbreads,” they range in price from €3.50 to €4.50. To name a few varieties, they serve revuelta ( beans, pork, cheese), chicharrón ( pork and cheese), carne asada ( beef), and chicken with cheese. There are also vegetarian options: frijol con queso (beans), zucchini with cheese, jalapeño con queso (spicy), garlic and cheese, or just cheese.
Among the specialties is loroco con queso: made with typical Salvadoran flowers.
If you want something heartier than pupusas, there are several dishes to choose from, such as El Callejero (€16.00): two sausages with marinated beef, casamiento (rice and beans), chirmol, and guacamole; or the carne a la plancha (€14.50): marinated beef with sides and a tortilla. The restaurant also offers a selection with a nod to Mexico, featuring burritos and tacos.
On the dessert side, you’ll find the famous Tres Leches (sponge cake soaked in three types of milk), empanadas, arroz con leche, and cassava fritters with panela syrup. All of this can be accompanied by a good Salvadoran-style horchata, made with morro seeds, cocoa, and cinnamon.
It’s the perfect spot if you want to escape the usual carbonara and try something that tastes of corn, spices, and distant traditions.
Where: Piazza Attilio Pecile, 41, 00154 Rome. Open Tuesday through Sunday; Tuesday and Wednesday for dinner only. Seating is limited, so reservations are required. In warm weather, outdoor seating is available. Cell: 342 883 4843.
