Between Licenza and Cineto Romano, just over an hour from the ring road, cold water flows through woods and waterfalls. It’s the day trip that Romans always forget about when the sweltering heat sets in.
The air shimmers on the ring road, the buildings reflect the July sun, and the temperature doesn’t drop even at night. Yet, just over an hour’s drive away, there’s a valley where cold water flows between the rocks and the sound of a waterfall drowns out the traffic noise.
They’re called the Monti Lucretili, east of the capital, between the Aniene Valley and the Sabina region. No resorts, no traffic jams on the ring road heading toward the coast: here, the coolness comes from the beech and oak forests, the streams, and the shade.
It’s the perfect spot for anyone looking to spend a day in the cool air without having to travel for hours.
In Licenza, following in the footsteps of Horace and exploring nature waiting to be discovered
There’s also a detail that few people in Rome make the connection to. These are the mountains where the poet Horace used to seek refuge from the chaos of the city: his villa, gifted to him by Maecenas in 32 B.C., is still there in Licenza, with its mosaics and thermal baths nestled among the olive trees.
It was he who called Mount Lucretilis “ameno,” and it is in these woods that verses were born that have become idioms, including “carpe diem.” Two thousand years later, the instinct remains the same: to escape the city to find a little peace and coolness.
In Licenza, the day unfolds on its own. There’s the archaeological site of Horace’s Villa, and just a short walk away, the Orsini Nymphaeum, said to stand on the site of the ancient Bandusia Spring celebrated by the poet; in the historic center, the Oraziano Museum inside Palazzo Orsini houses the artifacts from the excavations.
Just outside the town is the Giardino dei 5 Sensi(Garden of the 5 Senses), a public green space along the Maricella stream, featuring an organic garden, a sensory trail designed to be accessible to wheelchair users, and the Monti Lucretili Park Visitor Center.
It’s a great spot for birdwatching —up here, on Monte Pellecchia, the golden eagle nests—and from there, an easy trail winds its way past pools and small waterfalls.
And in a scenic spot stands the giant fuchsia-colored bench from the Big Bench Community Project, perfect for taking in the view of the valley (and for the obligatory photo).
The Rioscuro Waterfalls, the Water Trail of Cineto Romano
If you’re looking for something wilder, head to Cineto Romano. From the town center, it’s about a half-hour walk to the Rioscuro Waterfalls: a trail—part of the larger Coleman Trail, recently reopened and made safe—that follows the stream through dense woods, fords, waterfalls, and crystal-clear pools.
Admission is free, and the trail is always open.
The first section is easy and almost entirely in the shade, making it ideal even for those walking with children who can handle it; the final stretch toward the Cascata Grande, however, becomes steep and slippery, with rocks that must be navigated with caution. No strollers, and closed-toe shoes are recommended.
And as always when you head to the water: a full water bottle, a few snacks, and take all your trash home with you.
How to get there
🚗 By car (recommended): Takethe A24 Rome-L’Aquila highway and exit at Vicovaro-Mandela. Then:
- For Licenza (and Horace’s Villa): turn onto the SS314 Via Licinese and follow the signs.
- To get to Cineto Romano: take the SR5 Tiburtina Valeria and follow the local signs.
🚌 By train and bus: take the Rome-Avezzano-Pescara regional rail line and get off at the Valle dell’Aniene-Mandela-Sambuci station.
Important note: the old Cineto Romano train station has been closed for some time. Connections: COTRAL buses depart from the station plaza for Licenza and Cineto Romano. Service is infrequent, so it’s essential to check the official schedules beforehand.
