There is a place, less than a two-hour drive from the GRA, where a Milanese architect spent 25 years building a theater-city made up of seven amphitheaters, towers, and labyrinths, leaving it intentionally unfinished. Visits are by reservation only, cost €15 in cash, and it is hidden in the woods of Umbria in Montegabbione: it is called La Scarzuola.
What is La Scarzuola and why is it so unique
It is not a museum, it is not a park, it is not a village. La Scarzuola is a stone “theatrical machine, ” built on the site of a 13th-century Franciscan convent and conceived as an ideal city filled with esoteric symbols.
The idea came from Tomaso Buzzi, an architect and designer from Sondrio who trained in Milan during the era of the magazines Domus and Stile. In 1957, he purchased the ruins of the convent and began building his personal “stone dream” on top of them.
From St. Francis’s hut to Tomaso Buzzi’s dream
The site is first mentioned in a chronicle from 1218: according to tradition, St. Francis of Assisi built a hut here using scarza, a marsh plant from which the place takes its name, and planted a rose and a laurel from which miraculous water flowed.
A 13th-century Franciscan convent was later built on the site, which was partially abandoned in the 19th century. It was in this state of romantic ruin that Buzzi found it when he bought it.
The architect worked on his “theater-city” for over twenty years, until his death in 1981. It was inherited by his grandson Marco Solari, who continues the project to this day and personally leads every guided tour. Yes, he really does welcome you himself.
What to see at La Scarzuola: the 7 theaters, the Tower of Babel, and the Acropolis
Buzzi spoke explicitly of a “theater-city”: seven overlapping theatrical scenes, each inspired by a place symbolic of architectural history. Among the references: Hadrian’s Villa in Tivoli, the Pantheon, the Parthenon, the Colosseum, the Arc de Triomphe, the Temple of Vesta, and the Pyramids.
Towering above the theaters isthe Acropolis, a cluster of archetypes culminating in a small Tower of Babel —conceived by Buzzi as a symbol of vanity—and a colossal stone female torso representing lust.
The declared literary reference is the*Hypnerotomachia Poliphili*, an allegorical novel by Francesco Colonna from 1499: an initiatory journey through dreams, love, and enigmas that Buzzi translated into architecture.
Why La Scarzuola is (deliberately) unfinished
Buzzi didn’t leave it unfinished due to fatigue or lack of funds. The unfinished state is part of the project: an ideal city that is completed ceases to be ideal, because it becomes real.
Today, Marco Solari continues the work with the same principle: he adds, he modifies, but he does not close it off. Controlled chaos is the point.
When do tours of La Scarzuola begin, and how much is the ticket?
La Scarzuola is private property and can only be visited by appointment, with a guided tour led by Marco Solari himself. Tours take place on Saturdays and Sundays, with some exceptions on special days, and generally in the morning.
Tickets cost €15 (2026 season) and must be paid in cash at the entrance: no cards, no ATMs. Children up to 14 years old: free. You can also pay online with a credit card or PayPal. In this case, you must print the receipt and bring it to the entrance.
The tour lasts between an hour and a half and two hours and takes place almost entirely outdoors, so comfortable shoes are a must, especially if it rains.
Is it worth taking a day trip to La Scarzuola from Rome?
If you’re the type who gets bored with the usual weekends in Sperlonga or Anzio, then yes. La Scarzuola isn’t just an “Instagram-worthy” spot: it’s a guided, unhurried experience, rich in storytelling and symbolism. It works best if you arrive prepared.
It’s worth combining a visit with lunch in Montegabbione or a stop in Orvieto, which is just a 25-minute drive away: it easily turns into a full-day day trip from Rome.
How to get to La Scarzuola from Rome by car
🚗 Driving is practically the only option: the complex is isolated, and there is no public transportation to the gate.
From northern Rome, takethe A1 toward Florence, exit at Fabro (about 130 km from the GRA), and continue for another 7 km toward Montegabbione. Once past the village, a sign on the right points to La Scarzuola: the last two kilometers are on a dirt road, unpaved but passable even in a small car.
🕐 Total travel time from the GRA: about 1 hour and 50 minutes / 2 hours. Total distance: about 145 km.
📍 Address to enter into your GPS: Vocabolo La Scarzuola, 05010 Montegabbione (TR).
