It is not Venice or Burano: not far from Rome, there is an enchanted village where time has stood still.

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Rieti is one of Lazio’s hidden gems, a city where water is not only a natural element but also the architect that has shaped its history.

The “Venice of fresh water”

This charming nickname is not just a poetic reference, but has its roots in the medieval urban structure of the city. In the past, Rieti was criss-crossed by numerous artificial canals that were used to power mills and supply water to artisan workshops. The houses in the historic center, built close to the Velino River, created views that were very reminiscent of the Venetian lagoon.

The river flows through the heart of the city. Even today, you can still feel this symbiotic link between architecture and water. Furthermore, on the arched bridge built in 1930, you can admire the remains of the historic Roman bridge. The Romans built an immense viaduct to raise the Via Salaria, the ancient salt road.

What to see in Rieti: the must-see places

Alessandro Blasi from Rieti, Italy, CC BY 2.0, via Wikimedia Commons

1. 1. Rieti Sotterranea (Underground Rieti) is the most iconic attraction. Hidden beneath the noble palaces of Via Roma are the remains of the majestic Roman viaduct dating back to the 3rd century BC. It is an evocative journey through travertine arches that served to isolate the Via Salaria from the humidity of the river. The guided tour lasts about an hour and a half and must be booked in advance (cost €10).
   2. Piazza San Rufo (The Navel of Italy), Rieti is historically considered the geographical center of the peninsula (Umbilicus Italiae). In this small square, you will find a plaque and a travertine monument marking the exact spot (some say it resembles a “caciotta” cheese).
   3. Also worth seeing is the monument to the Lira, created by melting down 2,200,000 200 lire coins.
   4. The modern bridge stands next to the remains of the ancient Roman bridge (visible in the riverbed). The walk along the Velino is rejuvenating! You can reach the well district where the first clay extraction activities took place.
   5. Ozmo’s work, the first mural in Italy on the facade of a courthouse, was created in Rieti. It is entitled Al suono delle trombe (To the Sound of Trumpets) and can be seen in Piazza Bachelet.

Finally, don’t miss the Cathedral of Santa Maria Assunta, the Papal Palace, and the Flavio Vespasiano Theater, one of the theaters with the best acoustics in Italy.