At ninety-one years old, Maddalena Amodeo still churns the ice cream by hand every day, behind the same counter she’s been at for forty years. No additives, old-fashioned recipes, all vegan and cruelty-free, and a cone costs €3. There’s a line every day, the autographs on the walls include those of Francesco Totti and Paola Cortellesi, and some people have no doubt: “It’s the best in Rome.” It’s Gelateria Brivido, on Via Giovanni Battista Bodoni, just a stone’s throw from Piazza Testaccio.
There are thousands of gelaterias in Rome, but few tell a story like this one. Here, time has stood still: a simple, slightly retro shop, certificates and awards hanging on the walls, and that framed autograph from Totti who “always comes by,” as Maddalena says.
Why is Brivido’s gelato special?
Because it’s still made by hand, just like forty years ago. No additives, fresh ingredients, artisanal production (or “homestyle,” as the owner likes to say), and a loyalty to tradition that has never succumbed to trends.
Everything is strictly vegan and cruelty-free. “I was one of the first to make sugar-free and vegan gelato, ” Maddalena claims proudly.
In the tubs, the classic creamy flavors— chocolate, pistachio, zabaglione, almond —sit alongside whipped cream and the creations she continues to invent in her lab, guided by the seasons and her inspiration. From orange- or rum-flavored variegati to the custard “just like grandma used to make”: pasteurized eggs, grated zest from untreated Amalfi lemons, and a pinch of salt.
The latest experiment is “risotto gelato”: rice, milk, cinnamon, and salt. “I stirred it for an hour with a wooden spoon in the earthenware pot. I don’t blend it, so it’s truly a risotto, with all the grains intact.” And for those with a sweet tooth, there’s the ritual of dipping the cone into hot chocolate, which, upon contact with the cold, creates a crispy crust.
Who is Maddalena, the 91-year-old gelato maker?
She is the heart and soul of Brivido. She works every day alongside her daughter and welcomes every customer with the energy of someone who has never stopped loving what she does. “Making gelato not just with skill, but with love. Because love conquers all, ” she says, serving cones without ever stopping her smile.
In a neighborhood that’s changing rapidly, it remains a bastion that puts the customer and their enjoyment first. In Testaccio, they know it well: the real attraction isn’t the gelato—it’s Maddalena.
It used to be called Tropicana and was located in Monteverde
The story goes way back. Before Testaccio, the gelateria was located on Via di Donna Olimpia, in Monteverde, and was called Tropicana. Among the regulars was Ilary Blasi, who never missed her gelato treat from Maddalena when she left school as a child.
Since 1986, the shop has been known as Brivido on Via Bodoni, and this year it celebrates 40 years in business. Over the years, it has become a go-to spot for actors, singers, and celebrities: from Paola Cortellesi to Donatella Finocchiaro to Filippo Bisciglia.
An institution not just for Testaccio locals, but for all of Rome, and a must-visit stop for food travelers and tourists.
How much do Brivido’s ice creams cost in Testaccio?
The prices are one reason for the line: a small cone with two flavors costs €3, chocolate coating included for those with a sweet tooth. That’s practically half the price of “tourist” gelato in the city center, with the same quality (actually, better). The gelateria is open every day, usually from 11 a.m. until late in the evening.
Is it worth the trip? What makes it special?
Yes, if you’re looking for “old-school” artisanal gelato in Rome —not just another glossy shopfront. Brivido is one of those authentic spots that true Romans hold dear: genuine craftsmanship, fair prices, vegan options without compromising on flavor, and a history you can taste in every bite. It’s a serious contender for the title of Rome’s best gelato precisely because it doesn’t chase trends.
Just consider the line: it’s part of the experience. Take your time, perhaps during less busy hours during the week, and enjoy the ritual.
Where is it and how to get to Brivido from Rome
Gelateria Brivido is located at Via Giovanni Battista Bodoni 62, in the heart of Testaccio, just a stone’s throw from Piazza Testaccio and the Market.
🚇 It’s very convenient from the city center: take Metro Line B to the Piramide stop, then walk five minutes, or take trams 3 and 8 and several buses that stop in the area. Getting there by car is trickier due to parking in the neighborhood: public transit or a bike is best.
