It takes only two hours from Rome to reach a village that seems suspended in the sky, often called “the dying city.”
Here the landscape is constantly changing: houses poised on tufa, alleys that open onto sudden vistas, silences that seem to tell a story.
It is a place where unlikely things can happen, like sitting at the bar with Harry Styles, who is rumored to have bought a house here a couple of years ago.
True? Maybe. But that’s exactly the point: in this hamlet anything seems possible. We are talking about Civita di Bagnoregio, the suspended jewel of Tuscia.
What Civita di Bagnoregio is famous for.
Civita di Bagnoregio wins tourists from all over the world for its cinematic location, perched on a tuff hill that erodes every year, making it the “dying town.”
The village, founded by the Etruscans, preserves the original urban layout and medieval atmosphere. The area developed around the Cathedral of San Donato (later downsized to a church).
Porta Santa Maria, carved into the rock, still represents the emblem of the entrance to a dimension outside of time.
What to see in Civita di Bagnoregio
Despite its small size, Civita di Bagnoregio offers some must-see attractions:
- The Geological and Landslide Museum, to understand the natural fragility of the site.
- The Church of San Donato, the heart of the main square and a treasure trove of Renaissance frescoes.
- The Grotto of St. Bonaventure, Etruscan testimony and a place of ancient spirituality.
- The suspension footbridge, the only access to the village, which offers spectacular views among the gullies.
- The House of Pinocchio and the Antica Civitas Museum, curiosities for adults and children.
- The Chapel of the Madonna del Carcere, small and collected, near Porta Santa Maria, linked to local popular devotion.
- The Belvedere dei Calanchi, the most striking viewpoint, especially at sunset.
- Alleys and natural terraces: every corner is a glimpse to stop in your eyes (and camera).
Events such as the Living Nativity and the Chestnut Festival fill the village with local tastes and traditions.
Movies and celebrities in Civita di Bagnoregio
The magic of the village has also conquered the big screen: Civita di Bagnoregio has been the set of numerous films and dramas, including “The Two Colonels” (1962), “General Contestation” (1971), the screenplay “Pinocchio” (2008), “A Matter of Karma” (2017) and “You Can Kiss the Groom” (2018).
But who lives famously in Civita di Bagnoregio today?
Among the best known is Paolo Crepet, psychiatrist and writer, who has transformed a historic palace into a charming country house.
Oscar-winning director Giuseppe Tornatore, after shooting some scenes in the village, decided to buy a house there, falling in love with its unique atmosphere.
More recently, pop star Harry Styles bought a villa overlooking the badlands, becoming one of the village’s most celebrated residents.
When will Civita di Bagnoregio collapse? The uncertain future
The nickname “dying town” stems from the constant erosion of the tuff (about 7 cm a year) and the numerous earthquakes that have marked local history.
Tuff is indeed a fragile rock, and the gullies around it continue to slowly erode the base of the town.
But Civita is not in immediate danger.
A continuous monitoring and consolidation program has been in place since 2013, supported by the Municipality of Bagnoregio, the Lazio Region, the University of Tuscia and INGV.
Studies indicate that erosion is a long and controlled process. So the nickname tells more about historical identity than impending doom.
How to get to Civita di Bagnoregio and other practical info to organize your visit
- Distance from Rome: ~120 km, about 2 hours by car or tourist bus
- The visit takes about 2-3 hours.
- Parking: in Bagnoregio (no driving into the village)
- Access: on foot only via bridge
- Admission: €5 weekdays, €7 holidays and high season, up to €10 on special days
Spring and fall are the ideal seasons to visit Civita, although in winter you appreciate the tranquility and cozy atmosphere.