Climb the Spanish Steps and, at the top, look to the left of the Church of Trinità dei Monti: there’s a green door. Behind it lies the Antica Biblioteca di Trinità dei Monti, which has been open to the public again since September 19 following a restoration project that began in 2003.
What to see: the 1693 ceiling that tricks the eye
Beyond the main door of the Old Library of Trinità dei Monti lies the hall that the Minims built above the church’s presbytery. In 1693, they commissioned a trompe-l’œil painting on the wooden ceiling in honor of Saint Francis of Paola, featuring portraits of famous Minims and the coat of arms of the kings of France. The artists were most likely members of Pozzo’s circle.
What Happened to the 9,000 Books: The Paradox of 1798
In the 17th century, this hall was a center of learning: among the French Minims of the convent were philosophers, theologians, scientists, botanists, and musicians. It’s no coincidence that the library was built above the church’s presbytery, signifying that science, art, and faith coexisted within the same building.
And in addition to studying, from up there you could enjoy an unmissable view of the Eternal City.
In 1798, the French army—which had abolished the monarchy in France just a few years earlier—took up residence in the convent, which still preserved a legacy of the old regime: the coat of arms of the kings of France was prominently displayed on the ceiling.
The damage to the library was extensive, and the library’s approximately 9,000 volumes were either sold or destroyed.
228 years have passed, and the hall of what is still one of the five French churches in Rome has remained empty: all that remains is the space, the ceiling dating from 1693, and an absence that has become the theme of an exhibition.
Interpretive Perspective: The exhibition featuring 40 artists that fills the void
Emptiness has become the theme of *Hypothèse de lecture*, the inaugural exhibition curated by Gaia Bobò and Teresa Ranchino, featuring 40 artists from the Italian and French art scenes, based in Rome and Paris.
Belgian architect Olivier Goethals designeda “phantom architecture” inspired by a library for the occasion. The works engage with what the space preserves and what it has lost.
This is the first step in the new cultural direction envisioned by director Marie-Pierre Dabadie, and it marks the 70th anniversary of the sister-city relationship between Rome and Paris.
Among the reopenings in Rome in recent weeks, this is one of those with an expiration date: the official schedule runs through November 7, and there has been no announcement regarding what will happen afterward.
Hours, free admission, and how to get there: everything you need to know
- Address: Piazza Trinità dei Monti 3 (green gate, to the left of the church).
- When: September 19 through November 7, 2026.
- Hours: Wednesday, Thursday, and Friday 5:00 PM–8:00 PM; Saturday 12:00 PM–8:00 PM (last admission 7:20 PM).
- Price: free (free admission to the exhibition).
- Reservations: not required; you’ll need a form of ID at the entrance.
- Accessibility: The route has architectural barriers and is not suitable for people with limited mobility; there are no restrooms for the public.
- How to get there: Take Metro Line A to the Spagna stop, then walk up the Spanish Steps.
- After your visit: Villa Medici and the Pincio are just a short walk away.
- Info: 06 6792245.
