There are places in this city that you walk past every day without imagining what lies exactly three meters beneath your shoes. Whether you’re planning a weekend in Rome or you live there and think you’ve already seen it all, there’s a door in the heart of the Rione Monti that you absolutely must open.
A five-minute walk from the Colosseum, specifically at 28 Viale del Monte Oppio, lies the Basilica of Saints Silvestro and Martino ai Monti. From the outside, it looks like one of Rome’s many splendid Baroque churches, but its true magic begins when you decide to descend the steps. This hidden gem of Rome is a veritable time machine that allows you to explore the city level by level, traversing nearly 2,000 years of layered history.
A Journey Through Time: From the Baroque to Rome’s Underground
The journey begins in the magnificent 17th-century nave. Once you reach the area around the high altar, you begin the descent into ancient Rome: the first underground level is an evocative 9th-century medieval crypt. As you venture even deeper, the atmosphere becomes incredibly cool and quiet—a perfect refuge to escape the summer heat and the chaos of the city.
Within the damp walls of Rome’s underground passages, the visual algorithm of time reveals an intact treasure: an extremely rare, thousand-year-old fresco showing what the original St. Peter’s Basilica looked like before the great Renaissance demolitions.
The Enormous Domus Romana and the Secret of the 2 Euros
As you continue down, you find yourself inside the most surprising archaeological site: the so-called Titulus Equitii. It’s a massive Roman domus and commercial hall from the 3rd–4th centuries AD, transformed into one of the capital’s first semi-clandestine places of worship. Walking among these thick brick walls, cross vaults, and the remains of ancient mosaics on the floor makes your heart skip a beat.
Although admission to the church is free, all it takes to unlock the magic of the underground chambers is a 2-euro coin (to be paid on site to activate the lighting token machine). The lights come on, revealing extraordinarily well-preserved Roman rooms and passageways.
How to visit it and what to see in the surrounding area of Rome
Including this stop on a Rome itinerary lets you combine a stroll up the Colle Oppio with a culinary break at the nearby alternative spots on Via Urbana or Via dei Serpenti—for a truly local experience.
The church follows the standard opening hours for Roman places of worship. Since it’s an active parish and not a museum or showcase, the atmosphere is authentic—a world away from the massive, commercial lines at the surrounding monuments.
Practical Information on the Basilica of Saints Silvestro and Martino ai Monti
- Where exactly is it? The exact address is Viale del Monte Oppio 28, Rome. You can easily get there by getting off at the Cavour or Colosseo Metro B stops.
- How much is admission? Admission to the Basilica is free. To visit the separate underground archaeological area, a small donation of €2 is requested on site to turn on the timed spotlights.
- What are the hours in 2026? Open daily. Monday through Sunday, mornings from 9:00 a.m. to 12:00 p.m. and afternoons from 4:00 p.m. to 6:00 p.m. Cultural tours are suspended during liturgical celebrations.
- Tip from a Local: Bring a sweatshirt or a light jacket, even in the middle of August. As you descend to the fourth underground level, the temperature drops sharply, and you’ll really feel the temperature difference!
- Is it accessible to everyone? The main entrance to the church is accessible, but the descent into the millennia-old underground chambers features steep stairs, low ceilings, and uneven flooring. It is not recommended for those who suffer from claustrophobia.
